Martha's Blog

Open letter to a garden helper

Monday, March 8th, 2010

Hello unpaid garden helper!  I am so happy to see you and your friends.  So many of you!  With a rare few hours on a Sunday all to myself, I sought you out.  Thank you so much for munching all that dead green matter, aerating my soil and generally getting everything ready for my summer vegetable garden.  I hope I didn’t hurt you with the shovel — it kind of looks like you have a wound, but I was trying to be very careful.  I’m working on my computer all week, but I’ll be back on Sunday with some nutrient rich compost.  Hope you like it.  I got the good organic stuff.  Only the best for you.

Honesty on the menu

Saturday, March 6th, 2010

15-hour leg of lamb with a turnip gratin at Bluehour

We’re off to the Classic Wines Auction tonight (at the Convention Center - 750 people!) for the first time in many years.  I appreciated Executive Chef Kenny Giambalvo’s refreshingly honest remarks at our more intimate pre-Classic Wines Auction winemaker dinner Tuesday night at Bluehour.  We were honored to be asked to participate, and it was a pleasure to reconnect with the owners of De Lille Cellars, a Washington winery focused on Syrah and Bordeaux-style blends, with whom we were paired years ago for a dinner at Oba.

When given the chance to say a few words, Kenny didn’t give himself even a minute in the limelight, but rather, thanked his team, and thanked Classic Wines Auction and its patrons for providing a forum for a little creative outlet — allowing the chefs to invent dishes to complement the wineries’ latest releases.  Last year wasn’t fun, he admitted.  He’s right.  It was more a year of counting beans than cooking them up creatively.  And while those of us in the food and wine industries do indeed get asked to donate until we want to cry  “Uncle,” it is still a privilege to be able to do it, and to take part in the fabulous evenings.  Yet, our donations of wine and wine adventures would be valueless without the good-hearted wine-lovers who bid on them!

Please check back soon…no-knead bread, and open-faced chicken pot pie, with lots of photos…coming up!

“Ne plus ultra chocolate cake?!”

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Ace in the hole cake?  Beyond Great Chocolate Cake?  In the time it will take me to come up with a moniker for this cake, you can bake it!  No matter what you call it, this is a new home run, go-to recipe for our family collection.  Scott is the chocoholic, while I dream in almond, lemon or raspberry, but I can honestly say that this cake sends me.  It is ridiculously easy, and each forkful is better than you remembered from the previous one.  Each of us kept remarking on the outstanding chocolate.  Since Scott used Scharffenberger 70% this first time, we’ll stick with that.  It was exceptional.  The only barely sweetened, softly whipped cream was a nice counterpoint.  The recipe comes from Clotilde Dusoulier’s Chocolate & Zucchini blog, where she attempts to credit the recipe’s provenance.

Melt-in-your-mouth Chocolate Cake

- 200g (2 sticks minus 1 Tbsp) butter
- 200g (7 oz) dark chocolate
- 200g (1 C) sugar
- 4 eggs
- a rounded tablespoon of flour

Note: like all dark chocolate cakes, this cake is best made a day ahead (or at least in the morning if you serve it for dinner).

Pre-heat your oven to 180°C (350°F). Line an 8-inch round cake pan with parchment paper (no need to if you’re using a non-stick pan).

Melt together the butter with the chocolate (in a double-boiler or in the microwave slowly and for just a few seconds at a time, blending with a spoon between each pass). Transfer into a medium mixing-bowl. Add in the sugar, stir with a wooden spoon and let cool a little. Add in the eggs one by one, mixing well after each addition. Finally, add in the flour and mix well.

Pour the dough into the pan, and put into the oven to bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the center is set but still a little wobbly. Turn the oven off but leave the cake inside for another ten minutes, then put the pan on a cooling rack on the counter to cool completely. Cover with plastic wrap, refrigerate, and take it out about an hour before serving.

Weeds…It’s What’s For Dinner

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Isn’t my crew at home happy that I ran across a blog post about edible sidewalk weeds?!  During the Great Depression, there was a stigma attached to being an egg-seller.  What will the kids at school say if they find out we are weed-eaters?  Well, all I know is that this salad actually earned a High Five from the little one.  Really!  And, we didn’t actually forage from the sidewalk.  These beauties were in our raised beds (ok, well, a few were in the driveway).  I ran across the article quite by chance and in the nick of time.  I must say, weeding is an altogether different activity when it is an edible crop — less of a chore, more of an accomplishment, and easier than going to the grocery.

This is a Hairy Bittercress, and since it’s not the least bit hairy, and just peppery, exactly like watercress, I prefer to call it weedcress.  Cresses are absolutely loaded with antioxidants and minerals.  They are detoxifying power-foods.  By weight, watercress has more calcium than milk, more vitamin C than an orange and more absorbable iron than spinach.

Last night, we ate our weeds dressed with a simple vinaigrette (extra virgin olive oil, minced garlic, honey vinaigrette), tossed with half an apple, grated, and ripe avocado.  I added a side board of locally-made Olympic Provisions finocchiona, and a cheese, selected for us by Steve Jones of Steve’s Cheese on his last day at Square Deal Wines (he’s moving across the river into his own space, Cheese Bar.  Portland’s cheese guru has never steered us wrong.  We wish him loads of success).

A few weeks ago, with the first crop of cress, I dressed the greens with a vinaigrette and topped them with ripe avocado, and sliced grapefruit.  I made the same salad a few nights later and topped each plate with seared diver scallops.

Next up, weedcress pesto with goat cheese, spread on crostini?  Maybe roasted salmon with cress cous cous?

To Market, Year-Round in McMinnville

Monday, February 1st, 2010

Portland doesn’t have it yet.  McMinnville, Oregon has it.  A year-round market that is.  Oh, I have my fingers crossed for this endeavor.  So many things going for it thus far.  It is in a charming setting, in a historic granary district, much like the one where we located our winery and tasting room.

The graphic design and e-marketing are well-done so there is talent on board.  Nice diversity of vendors.  I bought some cabbage (to serve alongside some black-eyed peas that I stashed in the freezer).  One dozen farm-fresh eggs (should have taken photos of those beautiful little quail eggs and speckled turkey eggs).  Mmmmm….still thinking about that apple pie, with its sweet flaky crust.  I had the last little bit of an individual pie ($5) last night, and dreaming of a custom-order of one of 20+ pies they can make.  I see a pie and pinot party coming on.  Jewelry, barbeque from the Valley’s best known rib-slayer, wine tasting from boutique producers, refurbished vintage furniture, locally raised meat, kid’s activities (we got free used children’s books last weekend).  I see from the website that they’ll have just-caught crab this weekend. See you there!

crazy crawfish monica with shrimp

Friday, January 29th, 2010

Guest Blog

This was one of the best dishes (see recipe) I have ever had and the first one I have made on my own. I knew my dish was very good because no one at the table was talking unless they were saying my dish was amazing. Making the dish was really fun but eating it was more fun. I sautéed for the first time in in my life. I really liked using shrimp instead of using crawfish. I used our old bay spice instead of creole magic and it gave the dish great flavor. First dish big success. By Pirrie Wright

Oh, Gmama would be so proud of her granddaughter, shopping, making her first all-by-herself dinner from a family recipeand serving.  Scott did the dishes.  House rules!

Martha's note: Oh, Gmama would be so proud of her granddaughter, shopping, making her first all-by-herself dinner from a family recipe and serving (I can't even bring 3 plates to table at once). Scott did the dishes. House rules!

Geaux Saints!

Sunday, January 24th, 2010

What an intense nail-biter of a game!  The Saints deserved the win tonight over the Vikings, and so did the people of my hometown of New Orleans.  Then again, maybe there was a bit of voodoo involved.  Or maybe it was the Touchdown Chili that did it!  Modified from a recipe from Sunset Magazine, this meaty chili wins everyone over.  I suggest you try this on Superbowl Sunday and help the Saints beat the Colts in Miami!!  This is what we ate tonight, and it worked like a lucky charm!

If you can’t eat ‘em, chop ‘em

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

I do try to get more vegetables in our diet (notwithstanding the brontosaurus rib we ate last night at the Willamette Valley Winemaker’s Association Annual Dinner at Jory at The Allison Inn and Spa!).  And it’s not just a matter of any vegetables…it’s about getting a huge variety of vegetables.  The more variety the better.  So here’s something that works (sometimes?) in our house.  Chop them!  Whether it just changes the look of them, or makes them more manageable or edible, or offers better range of flavor per bite, there is just something about chopping up vegetables that is a game changer.  I chop up leafy greens like kale into an ultra thin chiffonade and then toss with a lemon vinaigrette and top with parmesan or pecorino romano cheese and sprinkle with toasted pine nuts — a recipe that I got from my sister-in-law, Jill.

Here's the raw kale salad hiding under roasted salmon with lemon yogurt.  Other times, I serve the kale as a starter.

Here's the raw kale salad hiding under roasted salmon with lemon crema. Often, I serve the kale on its own as a starter.

Our family loves brussels sprouts, but only if they are sliced into thin ribbons, and sautéed briefly over medium-high heat in olive oil, and then given a squeeze of lemon, or a sprinkle of grated cheese.

Christmas feast brussels sprouts

Christmas feast brussels sprouts

For salads, I’ve been trying to stay out of the loose-greens-topped-with-dressing rut.  The other day, I chopped up into very small pieces some celery, celery root, spinach, and apple.  I tossed it with a creamy spicy rémoulade (and raisins).  How about black beans, mixed with corn and chopped red pepper, cilantro and avocado?  Some stores sell a mixed bag of shredded carrots and broccoli.  Try dressing that “cole slaw” with a blue cheese vinaigrette or sesame ginger dressing.  Chopped ridicchio with a sprinkling of nuts, chopped pear and crumbled goat cheese?

To add interest, toss in seeds, chopped nuts, raisins, homemade croutons or big handfuls of chopped parsley and chopped green onion.  (I’m very high on parsley right now.  I used to think it was just garnish or color until I read an article that changed my perspective.  Don’t think of a little sprinkle.  Think huge, fresh, antioxidant-and-mineral-loaded handful.  It adds brightness).

I love adding big handfuls of chopped parsley to bean salads like this lentil one with red peppers and chopped ridicchio.  I also add parsley to rice and quinoa.

I love adding big handfuls of chopped parsley to bean salads like this lentil one with red peppers and chopped ridicchio. I also add parsley to rice and quinoa.

Kids may like ranch dressing to dunk vegetables, but don’t start there.  They also love hummus (our current fave is sesame hummus from King Harvest — addictive! — and great with red pepper strips and cucumber slices.  Or make a spicy peanut dip.  Or try tahini mixed with soy sauce and a smidge of brown sugar, to drizzle over steamed vegetables.  I just saw a recipe for an avocado dressing, and another for almond vinaigrette.

By all means, serve the salad or crudités first, while everyone is hungry.  I’ve watched kids polish off a pound of vegetables that way.  And play with your food!  Here I served chopped endive salad with a creamy hard-cooked egg dressing in little “boats.”

Thoughts on Eating in the New Year

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

I’m working on a list of thoughts and ideas about a fresh start on eating in the New Year.  It’s that time of year, certainly, plus we recently watched Food Inc, and just saw the awesome clip of Michael Pollan on The Daily Show with Jon Stewart (wow, two of my heroes, sharing a stage).  Stay tuned here for a big post full of juicy food for thought about eating well in the New Year, but I’ll throw one out to get us going.

Reduce the urge to overeat, firstly and most importantly, by feeding yourself with respect and love.  I’ve just removed from the oven a little ramekin that I buttered, added two teaspoons of half & half, and slid in two fresh eggs, topped with a handful of fresh herbs (more on herbs coming soon) and a sprinkled of grated hard cheese, and baked it at 375 until firm (or soft if that’s your preference).  I might have had a small slice of toast with it, but instead, I have homemade croutons on hand, so I’ve tossed those on top.  It looks, smells and tastes lovely and I’m thoroughly satisfied.  When Pirrie was a toddler and we spent so many summer lunchtimes in the park, I vowed that I wouldn’t cheat myself.  If I had pb & j, it was on Grand Central ciabatta, and the jelly was lemon-pear marmalade.

Make something nice for yourself today and see how well it fills you up, in more ways than one!  Stay tuned, and add your ideas.

Happy Roux Year!

Thursday, December 31st, 2009
Roux - not quite there

Roux - getting some color - not quite there

Roux - closer - nearly there

Roux - closer - nearly there

Yes!  We're there, dark chocolate brown, plus onions, celery and green pepper.

Yes! We're there! Dark chocolate brown, plus onions, celery and green peppers.

Scott butchers a chicken for the first time.  He does the shopping.  I forgot to request a cut up chicken.  We consulted books.  It's been a very Julia Child Yule around here.

Scott butchers a chicken for the first time. He does the shopping. I forgot to request a cut up chicken. We consulted books. It's been a very Julia Child Yule around here.

Gumbo will simmer for 3 hours with chicken, then I'll add andouille sausage made by the rockstar butchers of Laurelhurst Market, and let it simmer another 30 minutes.

Gumbo will simmer for 3 hours with chicken, then I will add andouille made by the rockstar butchers of Laurelhurst Market.

This gumbo recipe comes from a treasured cookbook called Cooking Up A Storm, Recipes Lost and Found from The Times Picayune of New Orleans, which you can read more about in my blog post from last year.  Can’t show you the finished product, ladled over white rice, because I haven’t served it.  We’ll eat this tonight, after some tasty appe-teasers.  I’m sautéeing mushrooms and adding some herbs and breadcrumbs and spooning into little puff pastry cups (earlier in the week, I didn’t need a full sheet of puff pastry, so I cut up the remaining portion into little squares and patted them into a mini-muffin pan.

I was winging it here without a recipe, but these mushroom mini-tarts turned out pretty yummy.

I was winging it here without a recipe, but these mushroom mini-tarts turned out pretty yummy.

Our friend Meri Kemp, a chef, is coming over with something surely delicious and clever.

An photo addition after the fact.  I was right.  She did bring something yummy and clever - a shrimp boil with a wonderful rémoulade sauce!

An photo addition after the fact. I was right. She did bring something yummy and clever - a shrimp boil with a wonderful rémoulade sauce!

There will be small-grower Champagne, and some fine Burgundy.  And gumbo.

Happy Roux Year.  May it be filled with food and wine adventures with good friends.  Now, go soak those black-eyed peas!