Archive for September, 2009

Wine, dinners, parties, harvest, etc.

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

First of all, a quick harvest update. It seems clear that we will pick next week - most likely starting on Tuesday, but we’ll watch and wait for the optimal timing. A few showers are passing through, to be followed by a string of nice sunny days in the hi 60s - we’ll sample tomorrow and see how flavors are developing…

We just announced our annual La Paulée dinner for November 7th, and seats are filling up quickly. If you’d like to join us for Oregon’s best night of bacchanalia - email Kelly Karr - kellykarr@scottpaul.com or call her directly at 503-319-5827…

Revelers at La Paulée 2008

Revelers at La Paulée 2008

I’m looking forward to seeing you here at the winery on Saturday for our “Farewell to Cuvée Martha Pirrie” party - we’ll be tasting the 2000 - the first vintage of the CMP, and the 2007 - the end of the line - and of course more Burgs and goodies - come on by and grab the ‘07 before she’s gone…

Speaking of the 2007 wines (they’re no good - it must be true because Wine Spectator said so…) - we’ll be releasing the 2007 La Paulée in November. We gave it an extra 6 months in bottle, and it is really showing well - silky, elegant, nice richness on the mid-palate and some spice notes emerging. Watch your email for all the release information to come. I am truly excited to unveil this wine (and to start showing the 2008 Audrey - your first shot to taste will be on November 7th. Details soon…)

And one more thing - the next load of incoming 2007 Burgundies should arrive next week - including the rare gems from J-J Confuron and the first of the ’07s from Taupenot-Merme. Oh yeah…

Video Podcasting - in HD!

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

We’re excited to launch our new series of Video Podcasts (those old audio-only podcasts are just so passé!)

We’re kicking it off with a walking tour of our new Azana Vineyard - enjoy!

Next up will be a walk through our blocks of Maresh Vineyard in the Dundee Hills, and I’m sure we’ll shoot some good stuff during crush as well. And I’ll finally produce Part 3 of the Burgundy 101 podcast - but this time it will be in video!

VideoBlog in the Vineyard

Monday, September 28th, 2009

Martha encouraged me to play around with our Flip Mino-HD video camera the other day, and we shot some footage up at our new estate vineyard - Azana Vineyard - in the Chehalem Mountains. Then I discovered the amazingly cool stuff you can do with iMovie on the Mac. And so, voilà! Our first attempt at a video blog. I apologize in advance for the shaky camera work - but thought it was worth looking at, at any rate…

I was then inspired to shoot some footage at Maresh - I’ll get to work on editing and post-production on that and try to get it launched in the next couple of days…

The ripening continues...

The ripening continues...

Decisions, decisions…

Monday, September 28th, 2009

The single most important decision in winemaking is “when to pick”. Once the raw materials are off the vines and in your hands, there are only two ways it can go.  You can capture and keep the inherent quality that mother nature provided, or you can screw it up and take it down a notch (or more) in quality. What you can’t do is improve it. Thus the huge pressure on deciding when to pick.

A lot of folks have started picking already here in the Willamete Valley - especially younger vines and lower elevation sites. Plenty of folks are picking older vines now too. There is a curious phenomenon I’ve witnessed every year - people start picking, apparently because “the neighbors are picking”, or because “everybody else is” - it’s a kind of herd mentality, I guess. As you may know, we are often “early” pickers in most vintages, due to the fact that we’re looking for flavors and aromas and balance that come from Pinot Noir at under 14% alcohol (it has become popular to let grapes hang until the alcohol approaches 15-16% in some circles. Those wines can certainly be yummy, but they’re not my bag…)

This year, however, it looks like we may be on the later side. Most of our blocks are at 23 Brix right now - which would technically put us at about 13.8% alcohol - but we have decided to wait. Why? Two main reasons. One - flavor. It’s just not there yet. The sugars have risen, acids have not yet dropped much, but the flavor development is lagging - and when all is said and done we pick on flavors, not numbers. Two - we farm biodynamically, and follow the biodynamic lunar calendar for everything we do - and the moon and stars are not in a good place right now. (If you don’t believe the moon affects things here on earth, I ask you to simply go to the nearest ocean and watch the tides come in and out…)

So, decisions, decisions. The weather has been great, but it looks like it’ll be getting a lot cooler now, and some showers are forecast for mid-week. We COULD ignore the calendar, pick today, and probably make some lovely wine. Or we could wait a bit - the lack of heat means not much more sugar accumulation is likely to happen - so we shouldn’t be facing elevated alcohol levels - but how much is it going to rain, and will we get a good dry window after? As of now our chances good - so we’ve decided to take the risk and hold out for flavors. Keep your fingers crossed for us - I’ll keep you up to date as it all develops. (BTW, the fact that there are showers in the forecast pretty much assures that Wine Spectator will declare it a “bad vintage” and that they will recommend avoiding all of the ’09s from Oregon, but I digress…)

In other news - we had a film crew descend on us yesterday from Wine Expedition - they produce some excellent Webisodes on wineries up and down the coast. They were in Oregon for one day, and selected us, DDO and Archery Summit to be featured in upcoming shows - we were honored to be chosen. They did a full-on HD three-camera shoot, and interviewed me in the winery and the tasting room. They will edit it all down to three shorter episodes that should be launched in about three weeks - watch this space for all the details…

And I’ll leave you for now with a shot of Chef Paul Bachand’s Rabbit Ravioli with Chanterelles and Duck Egg - good eats at Farm-to-Fork last night…

Patience, patience…

Saturday, September 26th, 2009

Still waiting. Still watching. The sun is shining brightly, we’ve got a couple of gorgeous days ahead - warm days, cool nights. If ripening grapes could order room service, this is what they’d order. Just gimme another week or so of this and we’re good to go. Of course it looks like the weather might turn in about 3 more days. Waiting. Watching. Nothing is ready to pick yet, so wait is all we can do…

And we can go check in on the baby vines at our new Azana Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA - here’s the view from up there earlier today…

2nd-leaf plants at Azana - Organic & Biodynamic

2nd-leaf plants at Azana - Organic & Biodynamic

Speaking of waiting, it’ll only be two more years before we get any fruit from this site. And by the time we know if it’s any good, I’ll be retired or dead (or both!) Other than that, everything happens quickly in this business…

If we have to wait for the grapes, at least we can eat and drink well - looking forward to dinner at Jory tonight. Cheers!

Power Lunch

Friday, September 25th, 2009

I admit that I’m coo-coo for quinoa.  Here’s my lunch.  What’s not to love?

Did you know that it’s not a grain?  Nope.  Actually related to the spinach and beet family.  For those not familiar, is it used like a grain, has a soft texture and nutty taste, and is packed with nutrition and health benefits. But that’s not why we eat it.  We eat it because it is delicious.  Here, I’ve tossed cooked quinoa with diced red pepper, chopped green onion and parsley, a handful of chickpeas, and a handful of beans from inside the pods of the green beans in my garden that got too big (btw, I didn’t even think of that until Yvonne in Carlton suggested it — now I’m not so bummed when the beans escape my notice and get too mature to eat whole — because these inner beans are delicious simmered in lightly salted water.  Also notice how pretty — lavender colored).  I really think most kids will eat quinoa.  Mine loves it.  She had this salad in her lunchbox yesterday.  Alternately, I’ve topped quinoa with ground turkey seasoned with taco seasoning and added chopped green onion, corn, avocado, chopped tomatoes, cilantro, black beans etc, little sour cream, etc.  That is an all-plates-licked-clean dinner.

Then, there’s the energy quinoa seems to give me!  I’m so pumped up right now after my lunch.  I should change the side of the Beetle to say, powered by quinoa!

Harvest update from Meursault…

Sunday, September 20th, 2009

The always thoughtful Patrick Essa of Domaine Buisson-Charles in Meursault sent his harvest wrap-up last night - I have translated it for you here…

We harvested practically without any rain - only two hours of light drizzle over the course of the entire harvest. There are objective reasons to be optimistic - the harvest was ripe, clean, and healthy. We are happy that we waited as long as we did, as the grape maturities really improved after Sept. 7th. We started picking the whites on the 14th, and it is clear that we remained true to our ideal of “full maturity, without over-maturity.” Nothing was less than 13.1% potential alcohol, and nothing over 13.6%, pHs averaged 3.30, and total acidity around 6.4, with very little malic. But that’s not everything - we must see how the wines behave in barrel during fermentation - hopefully not too turbulent - we will see. Today we picked the last fruit of the harvest, and have chilled down all of the whites after having let them settle for 24-48 hours. In short, nothing is finished - but I am extremely hopeful. I am writing this from a what I hope to be a most “neutral” perspective, but it’s true that from my core I am thinking of the 1979 whites and the 1990 reds - i am indeed thinking we have something great. We shall see…”

Closer to home, some of our neighbors have started picking here in Oregon - mostly younger vines at lower elevations so far. We’re still thinking we’re about 2-3 weeks away yet. We’ll do another round of samples tomorrow morning to get a read on sugar development. Some flavors are just beginning to show…

And here’s Patrick Essa in his cellar in Meursault, with some American winemaker-importer…

Pommard tasting tomorrow…

Friday, September 18th, 2009
A view down over the village of Pommard

A view down over the village of Pommard

Make sure to come by and taste if you have the chance - we’re open from 12-5 tomorrow (Saturday 9-19) for a killer line-up of wines from the Burgundian village of Pommard. We promised two village wines and four 1er Crus, and I’m sorry we’ve had to change that - we’re upping it to five 1er Crus along with the two village offerings - here’s the final line-up:

2006 Pommard Vignots - Aleth Girardin

2006 Pommard - Huber-Verdereau

2006 Pommard Pezerolles 1er Cru - Thierry Violot-Guillemard

2006 Pommard Clos Derrière St. Jean 1er Cru - Thierry Violot-Guillemard

2006 Pommard Epenots 1er Cru - Aleth Girardin

2006 Pommard Rugiens-Bas Epenots 1er Cru - Aleth Girardin

2006 Pommard Bertins 1er Cru - Huber-Verdereau

Wow - these wines do not suck! It’s a $20 tasting for the flight (which also includes our regular flight of Scott Paul Pinots and other goodies.) I Look forward to seeing you here in Carlton tomorrow!

Harvest Update - Gevrey, Morey, Chambolle & Dundee Hills…

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

In Burgundy, harvest has been in full swing for over a week now, and all of our growers - from Chablis down the the Mâconnais - have nothing but good things to say. There were some intermittent light showers there today, and it is forecast to continue, but it seems that most are nearly done picking, or will be finished over the weekend.

Romain, Virginie, Denise & Jean Taupenot - in their back yard overlooking Clos des Lambrays

Romain, Virginie, Denise & Jean Taupenot - in their back yard overlooking Clos des Lambrays

Romain Taupenot at Domaine Taupenot-Merme filed this report this morning:

“The health and sanitary condition of the fruit has been absolutely optimal - there was virtually no sorting to do. The potential alcohol is ranging from 12.5% in the Bourgognes to 13% in the Grand Crus - we will not be doing any chaptalisation this year. Taking into account the high level of millerandage this year (clusters with many tiny berries alongside the larger, normal sized berries), and the fact that we ended up with about 80% whole, un-crushed berries in the fermenters, I would expect these potential alcohol levels to increase somewhat. On the other hand the acidities are generally lower this year, the result of the heat-wave we had in late August.”

Fog over Maresh this morning

Fog over Maresh this morning

Meanwhile, closer to home - we had an unexpected rain yesterday, increasing the already strong botrytis pressure that is knocking on the door just about everywhere throughout the valley. Some folks have already started picking - mostly younger vines at lower elevations so far. I walked through our blocks this morning in the Dundee Hills, and was encouraged to see very little signs of trouble, but concerned that we appear to still be at least 2, maybe 3 weeks away from ripeness & readiness (and you know I’m only looking for about 13% alcohol…) More sun and mid-80s is expected tomorrow and for the coming week - which will help with ripening but can also help feed the rot issue…

Clusters ripening nicely in Block 10 at Maresh

Clusters ripening nicely in Block 10 at Maresh

I though you might be interested in seeing this. As you may know, Pinot Noir is quite genetically un-stable, and is prone to mutate in the field. A “Dijon 115 Clone” that you plant this year will likely become something entirely different in a few years time. Sometimes, they can even mutate into something other than Pinot Noir (though within the Pinot family.) Here’s a vine in the middle of Maresh that has become Pinot Blanc, best as I can tell…

The Black & the White

The Black & the White

From tasting the grapes this morning, I would say that were no further along than maybe 18-19 brix. Unless the weather takes a dramatic turn, we’ve still got quite a way to go. In the meantime, the spiders have been very busy, working their own brand of magic in the vines…

More as it happens - stay tuned! (And don’t forget to join us Saturday at our tasting room in Carlton for the mega Pommard tasting from 12-5!)

Oregon Bounty (new inns/garden vegetables ready for consumption)

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009
When Scott, Kelly and I arranged to meet at the Allison Inn & Spa for an event meeting, I got there a little early, slid into a seat at the kitchen counter, and visited a little with the chefs.  Béchamel…on an ordinary ole Thursday morning.  Some days I just have to pinch myself.  For the price of an omelet, you get to absorb an awful lot of view and luxurious ambiance.  I recommend it.  See Scott’s blog for more information about the Allison.
Wild mushroom and cheese omelet, with brioche toast, and smooth strong coffee from Coffee Cottage

Wild mushroom and cheese omelet, with brioche toast, and smooth strong coffee from Coffee Cottage

Meanwhile, back in the garden, I had a big harvest after two weeks of not being able to get to it.  I had lots of enthusiastic help from a fourth-grader!  I didn’t need bribes…digging up potatoes is just plain awesome fun.  The burgundy beans (the purple ones) are terrific, as are the young green beans.  No strings.  They’re great just quickly simmered, tossed with sautéed shallot, lemon, olive oil and salt.  Some of the Oregon blue lake beans got too big and tough, so I stringed them and put them in a pot with cut up tasso, a little beer, and some of the slow-roasted tomatoes in olive oil, and let them simmer.  I made that one up, but they taste great and the pot liquor is fabulous.  I made another batch of pesto, but this time I consulted Cook’s Illustrated and their recipe intro said something about how the flavor of pesto never lives up to the promising fragrance.  Funny…I agree!  So they have you bruise the basil and blanch the garlic, and also use less olive oil.
along with kale, chard is my vote for best hassle-free crop

along with kale, chard is my vote for best hassle-free crop

almost like having our own CSA!

almost like having our own CSA! Swiss chard, acorn squash, burgundy beans, green beans, poblano and jalapeno peppers, strawberries, potatoes and tomatoes

okra - new to the garden this year!  Look at these fat pods.

okra - new to the garden this year! Look at these fat pods.

slow-roasting more tomatoes in olive oil!

slow-roasting more tomatoes in olive oil!