Great wines with dinner
Friday, February 27th, 2009My friend Craig Williams, who for over 30 years was the winemaker at Joseph Phelps in Napa Valley, popped into town yesterday with some great wines in his trunk and insisted on taking me out to dinner and forcing me to drink the wines with him. Who was I to say no?
Craig, despite being the genius force behind some of the New World’s best and most-coveted Cabernet-based wines, is actually a great guy. His deep love and fascination is for Pinot and Burgundy, making him more than OK in my book. We’ve had the good fortune of spending some time together in Burgundy, and rumor has it he may want to make a little Oregon Pinot one of these days.
We rolled into Tina’s in Dundee, longtime bastion of excellent dining and a legendary winemaker hang-out, with a few nice bottles of Grand Cru burgundy in tow. Craig had brought a 2004 Corton Charlemagne from Bouchard - and knowing it was infanticide, we decided to check it out anyway (in the name of science, of course.) It started off with intense aromas of green apples and a note of petrol, and was tight but staggeringly long on the palate. It opened up in the glass after about 45 minutes, showing some riper citrus notes, and became more expressive in the mouth and was still ridiculously long. This wine will totally rock in another 10 years - way too young to really express itself fully right now.
We bought a 2006 Evesham Wood Cuvée J from the list - man, what a gorgeous wine. Russ Raney continues to be my favorite Oregon producer - he really captures the subtlety, the nuance, the true beauty of understated elegance and the purity of finesse - everything I think Pinot is really all about. Bravo - a simply marvelous wine!
Then we popped Craig’s bottle of 2002 Griotte Chambertin from Domaine Ponsot. That wonderfully funky fecal note was the first thing to jump out of the glass, and was followed by a swirling perfume of floral notes and black cherries. Pure silk in the mouth, oh so lovely and oh so long - absolutely delicious now, but I’d like to see another 5-10 years on it for the next layers of complexity to emerge. In all, a great wine indeed.
I often steer people toward Griotte Chambertin if they’re looking for Grand Cru Burgundy and don’t really know a lot about the producers or vintages. The entirety of Griotte is only 6.75 acres, and there are only five significant owners, each of whom farms their parcel meticulously and and is focused on acieving the highest quality possible (this is, unfortunately, rather rare in Burgundy - many holders of Grand Cru parcels can be less than focused on quality at times.) So, if you see a bottle of Griotte on a wine list or on the shelf, you pretty much can’t go wrong - all of the producers are doing an excellent job. (For the record - the producers are Ponsot, René Leclerc, Joseph Drouhin, Fourrier, and Claude Dugat.) Also, Griotte is a relative bargain, usually selling for a fraction of the price commanded by Chambertin or Clos de Bèze.
At any rate, a great night of food and wine (the salmon spring-rolls and the short ribs at Tina’s were spot-on - although I don’t feel the need to eat again for about a week!
Looking forward to seeing you here at the winery tomorrow - cheers!






