Roux - getting some color - not quite there

Roux - closer - nearly there

Yes! We're there! Dark chocolate brown, plus onions, celery and green peppers.

Scott butchers a chicken for the first time. He does the shopping. I forgot to request a cut up chicken. We consulted books. It's been a very Julia Child Yule around here.

Gumbo will simmer for 3 hours with chicken, then I will add andouille made by the rockstar butchers of Laurelhurst Market.

This gumbo recipe comes from a treasured cookbook called Cooking Up A Storm, Recipes Lost and Found from The Times Picayune of New Orleans, which you can read more about in my blog post from last year.  Can’t show you the finished product, ladled over white rice, because I haven’t served it.  We’ll eat this tonight, after some tasty appe-teasers.  I’m sautéeing mushrooms and adding some herbs and breadcrumbs and spooning into little puff pastry cups (earlier in the week, I didn’t need a full sheet of puff pastry, so I cut up the remaining portion into little squares and patted them into a mini-muffin pan.

I was winging it here without a recipe, but these mushroom mini-tarts turned out pretty yummy.

Our friend Meri Kemp, a chef, is coming over with something surely delicious and clever.

An photo addition after the fact. I was right. She did bring something yummy and clever - a shrimp boil with a wonderful rémoulade sauce!

There will be small-grower Champagne, and some fine Burgundy.  And gumbo.

Happy Roux Year.  May it be filled with food and wine adventures with good friends.  Now, go soak those black-eyed peas!

I was frankly less than thrilled. Or should I say frustrated, or just plain chapped? On the day before Christmas Eve Portland’s (and Oregon’s) major daily newspaper, The Oregonian, saw fit to splash across the top of their front page the teaser headline “Oregon winemakers struggle to sell their 2007 vintage due to poor reviews.” Then on the cover of the business section, a multi-page article with several full color photos appeared under the headline “Oregon winesellers struggle with uneven popularity”. The article was written by the Oregonian’s business reporter Dana Tims. I actually spoke to Dana at length on this subject a couple of months back, and he seemed to be in agreement that the wines were quite possibly much better than reported, which he alludes to in his article.

The article was actually quite fair and accurate. It included quotes from two Wine Spectator journalists, Harvey Steiman and Matt Kramer, who have been on record as not exactly being fans of many wines from 2007 In Oregon. I fully grant them that it was a challenging vintage. I give Dana Tims full credit for clearly stating that their negative assessment of the vintage may indeed be unfair. But my bone to pick, however, is with The Oregonian for using their front page to reinforce the perception that 2007 is a vintage to pass up. All that most people probably saw that day was the headline linking 2007 to “poor reviews” and “winemakers struggling”. The meat of the article was somewhat more encouraging, but on a day of frenzied holiday shopping and travel, the bright red headline visible from every newspaper box around the state was likely the impression that reached the most eyeballs. As I often find with the Oregonian, the headline sensationalized an aspect of the story that wasn’t really supported very well by the article.

I don’t have unrealistic expectations that The Oregonian should be a cheerleader for Oregon wineries. But is it too much to ask of them to not fan the flames of negativity? In just 40 years the Willamette Valley has developed into a world-class wine region that is contributing over a billion dollars per year to the local economy. Maybe we should at least expect from them a greater level of knowledge and understanding of this large local industry?

As to the 2007 vintage, it was certainly a mixed bag. Like anywhere that great Pinot Noir is produced, every year is different and takes on its own character. “That’s just the way it should be” as veteran vintner Andrew Rich points out in the article. There were many excellent wines produced here in 2007. I’ve recently enjoyed superb bottles from Domaine Drouhin, Evesham Wood and Belle Pente that I thought were simply outstanding regardless of vintage, and those are surely just the tip of the iceberg. Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate recently stated that there were more good wines here from 2007 than 2006. Other journalists are also on the same track, including Cole Danehower at Northwest Palate. Kelley Fox and I have been hugely happy with our Scott Paul 2007s from day one. We could probably sell three times more of the 2007 Audrey if we had it, but it sold out as futures a year ago. As the article states, many of the better 2007s have just been released - none of which were around when the negative blanket was thrown over the vintage.  We’ve just released our 2007 La Paulée bottling, and it is off to a quicker start than either of the previous two vintages. The fact remains that times are indeed tough. Few in the Oregon wine industry are setting new sales records these days, to be sure. We’re fortunate to be holding our own, and are thankful to our customers for their continued passionate support.

The bottom line is, now more than ever, it’s time to trust your own palate. Get out and taste, and buy and drink what YOU like. With the proliferation of independent wine blogs, Facebook, Twitter and a plethora of social media devoted solely to wine - more information is available now from the ground up, meaning that more real people are writing about more real wines, and you can get great information everywhere. The wine world has been radically democratized, and the days of a few national publications beaming down their pronouncements from the mountaintop are thankfully coming to an end. Vive la révolution…

I was very excited to learn yesterday that Christophe Thibert, of Domaine Thibert Père & Fils in Fuissé, has won this year’s Trophée de Jeunes Talents - the annual award that goes to the region’s top young winemakers. You know Christophe through his wonderful whites that we import from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy - including St. Véran, Macon-Prissé, and a stunning array of single vineyard Pouilly-Fuissé wines. Christophe and his sister Sandrine are the 7th generation at the helm of this wonderful estate, and we are proud to bring their wines into the U.S.

Christophe in his cellar in Fuissé

With Christophe grabbing the trophy this year, he becomes the fourth winemaker in our portfolio to have won this coveted prize in recent years. Benjamin Leroux (Maison Benjamin Leroux), Thiébault Huber (Domaine Huber-Verdereau) and Erell Ninot (Domaine Ninot) are all Trophée de Jeunes Talents winners. Wow!  It’s nice to know that our producers are as highly thought of by others as they are by us, for sure. I guess we’ve done a pretty good job so far of finding Burgundy’s rising stars - and I promise we will continue to do so (it’s my personal, never-ending quest!)

Now I’m off to get my mise-en-place ready for baking - Pirrie and I are baking for Santa’s imminent arrival. This year it’s Julia Child’s Mocha Chocolate Chip cookies. Any recipe that calls for a pound of chocolate is OK by me!

We had a truly great meal Thursday night at Laurelhurst Market in Portland — one of the best of 2009 without a doubt, and best values.  At Scott Paul Wines, we try very hard to over-deliver at the price point.  I think our values are well aligned with Laurelhurst’s and that should make us good partners for a joint dinner this February that will benefit Morrison Center Child and Family Services.  Here’s the full event schedule, with restaurants and wineries teamed up for interactive dinners all over the city.

Everything was extremely well-executed and delicious.  My 21-year-old stepson raved (”outstanding.”) The French Onion Soup was wonderful.  My cassoulet, pictured below after I’d already messed it up a bit, was excellent as was the side of kale.  The 12-hour smoked wagyu brisket and the chuck flap steak with bearnaise sauce seemed to go over well with the boys.  An apple tarte tatin was luscious.

We drank a lot of Crémant de Bourgogne and Champagne last night, as well as some fine Burgundy and a 2000 Cuvée Martha Pirrie Pinot Noir at the Scott Paul Wines holiday party for staff and a few friends.  To nibble on alongside the Champagne Marc Chauvet, I spread Duck Foie Gras Mousse paté (from Chop in NW Portland) on toasted brioche squares.  I made a fluffy mixture of gorgonzola and ricotta cheeses, with finely chopped walnuts and chives plus a small splash of apple brandy, and mounded a spoonful on the end of endive spears with a tiny sprinkling of crumbled bacon.  I made some little smoked salmon tea sandwiches, especially for the non-meat eaters to compensate for the fact that there was even meat on the candy (valrhona covered toffee sprinkled with bacon).  And my mother’s cheese puff recipe — always a hit, as in, guests-following-you-to-the-kitchen great.

If you want to grab some of the Crémant or Champagne in time for the holidays, tomorrow is your last chance!  Kelly will be in the tasting room 1-5 p.m., and then we take a few weeks to enjoy the holidays and recover!

Hope your season is filled with good folks and wine and lots of savory bites.  Cheers!

Food, in all it’s glorious wonders, is mostly the providence of Martha’s Blog - which I highly recommend you check out on a regular basis. Just because I normally don’t write about food, however, doesn’t mean it’s not on my mind at all times!

All the wonderful wines I’ve had the pleasure to enjoy this year were only part of the equation. For full appreciation and maximum enjoyment - wine needs to go with food. It’s actually a three-legged stool - with wine, food, and the friends-family-good company they are shared with all of equal importance in my book. When all three are in harmony, then you’ve got the makings of a truly extraordinary and memorable experience.

Looking back over the year, the one meal that really stands out was a special Oregon Bounty dinner that Le Pigeon chef Gabe Rucker put on for a private group of artisan farmers, purveyors, brewers and winemakers last June. Consistently one of my favorite restaurants on the planet - “The Pige”, as we call it, continues to dazzle with hedonistic delights. This meal was off-the-hook great. I don’t know which of the seven courses blew my mind the most. Maybe it was the hay-roasted Beef with Porcini mushrooms and Candy-Cap mushroom crème fraiche -

Or maybe the Chocolate truffle and salt-caramel tarte with hazelnut-espresso cream -

Or perhaps the Blue-cheese créme brulée with biscuit and Strawberry jam -

Other standouts of the year included several of the dishes from Véronique Drouhin’s Paulée in Beaune last month. Sea Scallops perfectly poached in butter over a bed of the most tasty sausage I’ve ever had was completely swoon-worthy - intensely flavorful and ridiculously delicious.

The Sea Bass Sashimi and Smoked Salmon with spicy Mango Gelée also rocked my world -

At this year’s La Paulée de Meursault I went nuts for the Lamb Shoulder cooked seven hours in its own juices, with Potatoes Confit in Goose fat. Oh my… (sorry, no photo - I ate it too fast!)

Closer to home, actually AT home, were some of the absolute best dishes and meals of the year. Martha & Pirrie’s garden in Carlton provided us some great pleasures of the table this year. Like these home-grown greens and potatoes with a nice grilled grass-fed hanger steak -

Or these gorgeous tomatoes & basil with mozzarella -

Back in Burgundy - it’s hard to beat the “great ingredients, simply & perfectly prepared” approach of the best French bistro cuisine - like this Duck Breast and Potatoes at La Ciboulette -

Here in Oregon, the dining scene around Portland and in Wine Country is more vibrant than ever. Some excellent newcomers in Wine Country this year - most notably Farm to Fork, Thistle, and Jory at The Allison, joining established faves Painted Lady, Tina’s, Dundee Bistro & Red Hills Provincial Dining. we are blessed to have these wonderful restaurants and talented chefs in our midst.

The list in Portland is practically endless - but in the past year we’ve especially enjoyed the aforementioned Le Pigeon, Paley’s Place, Laurelhurst Market, Urban Farmer, Park Kitchen, Beast, Sel Gris, Bunk Sandwiches and Metrovino - which is home to this outstanding Charcuterie plate -

OK - I am now officially hungry. Time to see what Martha has on the stove! Happy wine-ing & dining in 2010!

Dark Chocolate & Bacon Topped Toffee

1 pound good quality bacon, cooked crispy, drained, cooled and crumbled. I cook mine on a rimmed sheet pan in the oven, at 400-425 for 15-20 minutes. Save remaining chopped bacon for…anything you want! You’ll be so happy to have it ready to sprinkle on potatoes, salads, or soups, or a little mini blt.
35 or 40 soda crackers
1 cup butter + 1/4 cup for pan
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 can (14 oz) sweetened condensed milk
12 ounces bittersweet chocolate. I use Valrhona 79% cacoa. Can be lighter but use high quality.
Preheat oven to 425. Melt 1/4 cup butter, pour into 10X15 jellyroll pan and arrange crackers over butter. Combine 1 cup melted butter and brown sugar in medium saucepan. Bring to boil and boil 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and stir in sweetened condensed milk. Pour over crackers. Bake 10-12 minutes until topping is bubbling and slightly darkened. Remove from oven and cool one minute. Scatter chocolate over top. Allow to melt 5 minutes. Spread chocolate over caramel and sprinkle with as much chopped bacon as you desire, reserving remainder for other use.
Refrigerate until chocolate is set. Cut into small squares. Stores well in the freezer.

Inspired by a recipe for toffee from Springbrook Hazelnut Farm B&B in Newberg Oregon. Original recipe is topped with hazelnuts instead of bacon.

Today I’m serving up a smorgasbord of what I hope are tasty little bites…recipes and recipe ideas that have come my way recently. You’ll find something to suit all cravings on this buffet.

As I often do when I write, I’ve got a cup of CDM coffee by my side, and today, a nibble of glazed almond-flavored butter cookies that we made yesterday. Makes me think of Scott’s Swedish grandmother’s beloved Mazariner, that I might make this week.

The almond cookies. Gosh, cats do love Christmas!

The Oregonian recently published my photo and an article about my eating and exercising program (well, “program” sounds far more defined and scheduled than it actually is). I think Nancy Dow did a nice job, although she didn’t include the part about my dietary weakness for animal fat. Anyway, having that photo shoot behind me sent me on a pork jag. Really. The first thing I did was make toffee, and topped it with dark chocolate and bacon.  I’ll be making another batch to serve at our winery staff holiday party this weekend.  The original recipe came from Springbrook Hazelnut Farm, a wonderful B&B in Newberg OR.  The inspiration to add the valrhona and bacon came late at night.

A few days later, I cooked a big pot of meaty pork chops with assorted root vegetables. Love. At the same time I cooked the chops, I threw a ham hock in a pot of split peas. If I’m going to be in the kitchen for 2 hours or more, there’s no reason not to have a pot of beans on - beans, water, onions, bay leaf, ham hock, done. This is high on my list right now of big flavor, low effort dishes. (For one pound split peas, picked through and rinsed, add 5 cups water or stock, 1 medium onion chopped, one ham hock, one bay leaf if you like. Boil, scoop any foam, and simmer 1 ½ hours. You can add diced carrot to the pot for the last twenty minutes. Remove ham.  When cool enough to handle, pick and chop the meat and stir back in.  Add salt to taste. This will serve 4-6. Might as well do two pots and double it).  It’s a great time of year to have this in the fridge or freezer to eat before or after a party, or just for a great winter lunch to warm you up.

Portland’s Food Dude (restaurant reviewer and blogger) says he is throwing himself on the grenade of bad food, to save you. Well, let’s just say that I clip and source a LOT of recipes. And, no big surprise, they are not all good. I can’t think of any disasters of late, but I certainly will spare you everything that was underwhelming. I look at it a little like photos, pre-digital. If one photo out of the whole roll of film is a gorgeous keeper, I’m pleased. Here are two recent recipe hits that will make it into the Wright Family Favorites:

Maple Cream. A Betty Rosbottom revelation (cooking teacher, author). I made her apple crumble with cranberries for Thanksgiving and it was quite good and worthy of a repeat. Especially so for the versatile maple cream. I just might not ever make plain whipped cream again. It would be exceptional on a flourless chocolate cake, or a pumpkin or pecan pie, and especially on berries in the summer. It would kick up morning pancakes to the level of 5 star hotel brunch, as it did here, atop my father’s recipe for orange pancakes. I topped them with maple cream and chopped pecans and a few dried cranberries.

My father's pancake recipe, topped with maple cream and chopped pecans

Apple Cranberry Crisp, recipe from Betty Rosbottom

And here’s a great one from someone Scott has toured through a few of the most famous vineyards in Burgundy. What does Rajat Parr, sommelier/owner of red-hot RN74 restaurant in San Francisco cook for friends, late-night, from mere pantry staples? Cheesy Farro and Tomato Risotto (based on recipe printed in Nov Food & Wine Magazine). In the spirit of the recipe (using what’s on hand), I substituted barley for the farro. I also used some fresh vegetable stock instead of water, because I had the pot of root vegetables cooking. It went over big with my taste-testers. I love the idea of serving this alone as a simple supper, or before or after a holiday party, or even as a side dish, as a creamy and comforting but healthier alternative to pasta or mac ‘n cheese.

Scott snapped this shot at the Paulée de Meursault of wine writer/author Jordan Mackay, left, and Raj Parr, the man who drinks perhaps more outstanding Burgundy on a daily basis than anyone else (yes, more than Scott).

First, some shameless self-promotion. Some great gift ideas as we edge closer to the big day:

For the Pinot Lover who has Everything: Here’s one thing I can guarantee they don’t have - a 6-pack of our 2008 Audrey Futures! Our best wine of the vintage, only 200 cases produced from our old vines at Maresh Vineyard atop the Dundee Hills, planted in 1970. Consistently one of Oregon’s silkiest and most elegant Pinots, and available only direct from the winery. It’s $44 a bottle as Futures (sold in 6-packs only, or multiples thereof) - will be $65 on release next April…

For the Burgundy lover who has Everything: How about a Magnum of the delicious 2007 Hospices de Beaune Beaune 1er Cru Cuvée Maurice Drouhin, one of only 12 magnums bottled from the barrel I bought at the famous auction in November 2007. $105 secures yours for the burg-head on your list…

For the Bubbles lover who has Everything: There are only about 3-4 cases of this in the country, and when it’s gone it’s gone. I’m talking about the 1999 Special Club from Champagne Marc Chauvet - citrus, brioche, and a great intensity of flavor from nine years on the lees. The best-of-the-best from one of Champagne’s top micro-producers - yours for $55, a total steal for juice of this quality…

It was a banner year for great Burgs that I had the privilege and pleasure to enjoy these last 12 months. Many wonderful wines made their way into my glass. Here then are my favorites of the year (so far - we’ve still got a couple weeks to go, anything could happen! If you happen to run into a bottle of ‘29 Romanée-Conti, let me know…)

The Whites

‘78 Montrachet - DRC. Words fail. Beyond marvelous. An emotionally thrilling experience.

‘90 Meursault Perrières - Coche-Dury. I’m not a die-hard Coche man, but this bottle was astonishingly great.

‘64 Chevalier Montrachet - Latour. Of course, white wines don’t age very well…

‘57 Batard Montrachet - Ramonet. Further proof that whites don’t cellar well…

The Reds

‘45 Musigny - de Vogüé. One of my top two or three all-time favorites. Had this twice this year. The domaine bottled versions seem to consistently edge out the ones bottled by Drouhin, but I am picking at nits here. A full-on emotional, sensorial, and hedonistic experience that is about as good as it gets. (In my mind ‘29 or ‘45 Romanée-Conti are better, but I’ve never had them, so maybe I’m just romanticizing…)

‘66 Richebourg - DRC. I’m a Richebourg slut, what can I say? Velvety hedonism at its purest…

‘47 Volnay Clos de Chevrey - d’Angerville. Wow. Simply wow. Look up “spectacular Volnay” in the dictionary and this is what you should find. Reference-standard quality. Amazing.

‘23 Bonnes Mares - de Vogüé. Alive, vibrant, amazingly complex, and pure as the finest silk. Pinot Noir, of course, also does not age well…

Bubbles

‘64 Salon. A tremendous example of what older Champagne can be when you hit that magic bottle. Still showing fruit, a gentle but consistent mousse, and layers and layers of flavor that open up like a lotus flower. Simply fascinating…

Back soon. Time to trim the tree and revel in Arsenal’s huge victory over Liverpool yesterday…

‘Tis the season indeed! The wreaths and lights are up at the house, we’ll get the tree this weekend, no pipes have burst yet - it’s a go!

It was a great time in Sisters, OR last Sunday for our annual dinner at the fabulous Jen’s Garden. TR & Jen do an amazing job, as does Emily at Cork Cellars. The food was amazing, the wines did not suck, and a good time was had by all. we even forgot for a moment that it was down to near 0 degrees that night. We’ve had quite the arctic chill going on here for the last week or so. It is supposedly ending tonight, to be followed by a storm of freezing rain! Please, no replay of last-year’s pre-Xmas fiasco…

Summertime in Champagne

There’s still time to get your gift orders in for the holidays (and to stock up at home, just in case we get snowed or iced-in again!) Need bubbles? Small amounts of the amazing Champagnes from Marc Chauvet remain, along with the killer-value Crémant from Huber-Verdereau (which was just written up in Mix Magazine.)

We’re also doing a year-end special on four of our staff favorites from the tasting room over the past year. Full or mixed cases are 25% off on these four goodies - our 2007 La Paulée Pinot, the 2007 St. Véran from Domaine Thibert, the 2007 Côte de Nuits Villages from Jean-Marc Millot, and the 2007 Côte de Nuits Villages from J-J Confuron. This offer is good thru Dec. 19th - get your orders in now…

Check out this very nice article on us in Thad Westhusing’s Beyond the Bottle Blog… Thanks for the kind words!

Winter in Portland (2008)

It’s hard to believe we’re booking events for 2010 already. Coming up in March we’re doing a great winemaker dinner in conjunction with the Classic Wines Auction. On March 2nd we’ll be at Portland’s Bluehour restaurant along with DeLille Cellars and O Wines. You can register now and get more info at the Classic Wines Auction Website…

Coming up shortly - the list of my favorite bottles of the year. Stay tuned!

I’m writing from the wonderful Five Pine Lodge in Sisters, OR - where the low tonight is forecast to be 5 degrees! That’s 5 degrees Farenheit - or about minus-17 Celsius. Yikes! It was icy and pretty scary, with howling winds driving over the pass today, but thankfully chains were not needed. There’s nothing I like to do less than putting on the chains in the bitter cold (which of course seems to be the only time one needs to put them on…)

At any rate, I’m over here in central Oregon for a great winemakers dinner tonight at Jen’s Garden in Sisters, a rockin’ good resto. This has become an annual event that we do in conjunction with our friends at Cork Cellars in Sisters. I’m looking forward to some great food and camaraderie tonight. The wines will not suck either - starting with the Crémant de Bourgogne from Huber-Verdereau, and then some Mâcon-Prissé from Domaine Thibert, Côte de Nuits Villages from Jean-Marc Millot, Gevrey-Chambertin from Taupenot-Merme, and our 2006 La Paulée & 2007 Audrey. Yum indeed!

It seems like life has been one endless event since I left for Burgundy back on Nov. 11th. Went right from all of that wonderful insanity in France directly into our Thanksgiving weekend open house festivities, then our big event in Portland at the EcoTrust Bldg. a couple of nights ago, and now I’m over here. This is the end of the line for the year, though. No more major events on the calendar. I’m looking forward to a slightly mellower pace when I get back to the other side of the mountains tomorrow. (And may the gods guide me safely once again across the pass…)

It’s been a great fall season in the tasting room. We’ve seen a ton of new faces, made a lot of new friends, and have had people visiting from all over the U.S., as well as Canada, New Zealand, Australia, and Japan. I appreciate it so much when folks take the time to come in and see us. The world is ridiculously busy these days, and there are thousands of wineries one could go to - so huge thanks for putting us on your schedule this year.

And here’s Colleen from San Diego & friends, who stopped in yesterday to sip some good grape juice…