Today is my favorite day of the year, every year - for this is the day of La Paulée in Burgundy. As much as I anticipate it, I am never disappointed, and in fact it usually exceeds my wildest expectations. This year may have been the best of them all.
I started off with a couple of great tastings this morning, first at a super-secret location (that I hope to be able to reveal to you in due time), and then my annual November visit to Lucien Le Moine in Beaune. Suffice it so say that the 2006s at LLM are beyond stunning - I like them better than the 2005s at this point, and they will surely be some of the highest rated wines of the vintage once again. Look out for their Amoureuses, Clos de Beze and Clos Vougeot next year - they are mind-blowing.
Before I forget, I am happy to report that we were successful in buying a barrel of the 2007 Beaune 1er Cru cuvée Maurice Drouhin at the Hospices de Beaune auction yesterday - the wine is lovely, and we’ll offer it as futures in a year or so. Great stuff…
And on to La Paulée. Where do I begin? It is a great pleasure to attend this special event, and I thank our hosts Véronique Drouhin and her husband Michel for putting together the greatest of all wine events on the planet. In attendance were winemaking luminaries from Drouhin, de Vogüé, Latour, Jadot, Moet et Chandon, George Mugneret, Chandon de Brialles, Egon Müller, Etienne Grivot, and of course Allen Meadows and a group of some of the most passionate Burgundy lovers/collectors on the planet. Lunch was prepared by Jacques Lameloise of the 3-star Lameloise in Chagny. The Burgundy truffle ravioli rocked my world in a big way.
On to the wines. Over 70 amazing bottles crossed my path over the course of the day, and I’m sure I missed at least a hundred more that were going around. It was truly an exercise in excess and pure hedonism, and I find nothing wrong with that!
I am clearly one of the most fortunate people on the planet. There are two legendary wines that mean a great deal to me, that are deeply engraved in my memory, and are the reasons I set off on this path to make wine and ultimately import wine from Burgundy. Amazingly, in the last two years I’ve had the opportunity to taste both of them at the Paulée. Last year a lovey lady from the UK brought the ‘61 Krug in magnum, and this year it was the mythical ‘59 La Tâche. Whenever I’m asked what got me into wine, I always mention the ‘59 La Tâche - and this time around it was again a truly transcendental experience. Only a handful of times in one’s life do you drink a wine so profoundly great that it seems to stop time - it is only you and the wine, fully concentrated and focused in a moment of intense clarity that feels as if it could last forever - and in fact that feeling is indelibly etched in my soul. I can truly say that I will likely never have anyting finer cross my lips, and the thought of being able to die happy comes easily after a wine like that.
So what can I say when I am then presented with not one but two magnums of the legendary ‘47 Musigny from de Vogüé (made by Christophe Roumier’s grandfather) - one bottled by Drouhin, and the other an estate bottling. I was in absolute awe of simply being in the presence of these bottles. Tasting them side by side proved monumental. The Drouhin bottling was in better shape and thus fresher, but they were both stunning. To cut to the chase, the last swallow was the single greatest wine experience I’ve had. It is hours later and I’m still moved. I was then staggered to be confronted by a bottle of the ‘45 de Vogüé Musigny and a magnun of the ‘52! Many burg-geeks will tell you that the ‘45 or ‘47 Moose is the greatest Burg of all time - and having both on the table tonight was simply beyond belief. The bottle of ‘45 turned out not to be a great example, but the underlying material was amazing nonetheless. I expected not so much from the ‘52 (a difficult vintage with very few good wines) - but this mag was singing nicely - not transcendental, surely, but still a great treat. I feel very blessed. This was the most most enjoyable day of my life in wine, and 365 days from now we’ll do it again!
Here then the list of of wines we enjoyed with lunch today in the ancient cellars at Drouhin…
’99 Clos des Mouches Blanc – Drouhin
90 Puligny les Referts – Carillon
’04 Batard Montrachet (mag) – P. Colin-Morey
’55 Chassagne-Montrachet – Dumay
’93 Puligny Combottes – Sauzet
’64 Meursault – André
’99 Batard Montrachet – Latour
’93 Chassagne Maltroie – Niellon
’92 Corton – Chandon de Briailles
’93 Meursault Rougeots – Coche-Dury
’90 Montrachet – Laguiche (Drouhin)
’18 Meursault Goutte d’Or – Grossweiler
’86 Batard Montrachet (mag) – Delagrange-Bachelet
’92 Chassagne Grands Ruchottes – Ramonet
’91 Chassagne Grands Ruchottes – Ramonet
’78 Batard Montrachet (mag) – Bachelet-Ramonet
’64 Reisling Spatlese – Egon Muller
’02 Corton Charlemagne – Latour
’92 Corton Charlemagne (mag) – Jadot
’92 Corton Charlemagne – Raphet
’90 Corton Charlemagne – Drouhin
’99 Chevalier-Montrachet – Geo. Deleger
’93 Clos des Mouches Blanc (mag) – Drouhin
’00 Richebourg – DRC
’85 Bonnes Mares (mag) de Vogüé
’85 Pommard Rugiens – Ganoux
’05 Romanée-St. Vivant – Dujac
’04 Bourgogne – LeRoy
’05 NSG 1er – Dom. De Perdrix
’47 Richebourg – Grivelet
’78 Clos de Beze – Moillard
’99 Clos Vougeot (double mag) – Grivot
’00 La Tâche – DRC
’85 Savigny Lavières – Camille Brouchon
’62 Beaune – Hospice de Beaune
’92 Chambolle les Amoureuses – de Vogüé
’85 Grands Echezeaux – DRC
’71 NSG les Pruliers – Faively
’94 Clos de Tart – Mommesin
’93 Grands Echezeaux – Engel
’38 Clos des Lambrays
’90 Bonnes Mares – de Vogüé
’59 La Tâche – DRC
’00 Musigny – Roumier
’48 Grands Echezeaux – DRC
’90 Clos de la Roche – Ponsot
’91 Savigny les Beaune – Chandon de Briailles
’90 Corton – Chandon de Briailles
’71 Echezeaux (6L) – Mugneret
’47 Musigny (mag) – de Vogüé (Drouhin bottling)
’47 Musigny (mag) – de Vogüé (estate bottling)
’59 Corton-Bressandes – Drouhin
’23 Clos Vougeot – Bouchard
’64 Volnay Clos des Ducs – d’Angerville
’44 Richebourg – DRC
’47 Chambertin – Grafé/Drouhin
’91 Clos de la Roche – Ponsot
’78 Volnay Clos des Chênes – Lafarge
’02 Echezeaux (mag) – Mongeard-Mugneret
’24 Clos des Mouches – Drouhin
’46 Clos des Mouches – Chanson
’49 Clos des Mouches – Drouhin
’45 Musigny – de Vogüé
’78 Clos de Beze – Drouhin
’52 Musigny (mag) – de Vogüé