Archive for 2006

December 11, 2006

Monday, December 11th, 2006

Excuse me for being so brain-dead, but I just realized I’ve neglected to report that we purchased another barrel of wine this year at the Hospices de Beaune auction back in November. So much has been flying in and out of my brain that I completely forgot to mention it. Anyway, we were successful in getting a barrel of the 2006 Beaune 1er Cru Cuvée Maurice Drouhin - the same cuvée we purchased at last year’s auction, but of course this is the 2006 version. Prices were up just a bit this year for the reds, but the whites were stratospherically high (mostly due to limited availability) - so we passed on the whites this time around (they simply would have been way too expensive in relation to the quality, in my opinion… )

Watch for a futures offering on this wine later in the winter. Most of the 2005 Hospices wines that we purchased have already been sold as futures, but I think we held on to a few cases of each that we can sell upon arrival next spring…

December 6, 2006

Wednesday, December 6th, 2006

So, of course my planned respite after Thanksgiving turned into a period of frenetic activity. No rest for the weary, right? No complaints, however. The holiday season is now in full swing, and life seems to be returning to a somewhat normal pace…

Thanks to all who joined us for the T-Giving Open House - it was a huge success, and we all had a blast. Special thanks for supporting the wines so strongly - there remains but a little of the 2005 Audrey, and it won’t even be released until the Spring. We will try to hold on to a bit for then, but it very well may sell out as futures. Speaking of which, the futures sales program runs only until December 15th - all of the 2005 La Paulée and Audrey remaining at that point will go up for sale at full price in April…

Over the next few weeks I hope to be taking time to reflect on the amazing last 18 months, and I’ll share my thoughts with you all here. Suffice it to say for now that I am grateful for the support of my family, the entire Scott Paul team, and all of the good fortune that has come our way. The passing of Bryce Bagnall, in addition to being a great loss for us all, also serves as another reminder that we need to live and love fully every day…

November 22nd, 2006 - 37,500 feet above the Atlantic

Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006

Well, there’s no wifi connection up here (at least not yet - probably soon though!) Actually, my laptop is detecting someone’s wireless computer-to-computer network hee on the plane, but I think I’ll decline to connect…

Since the last entry I have had time to recover from the sheer blitzkrieg of wines at the Paulée - I was actually very disciplined and spit everything all day, thus emerging sober but with a very tired palate. Others around me were not so cautious - fortunately most folks were staying within walking distance. (OK, I didn’t spit everything - I may have swallowed a sip or two of the ‘49 Pommard and the ‘31 Bonnes Mares - it would have been a sacrilige not to!)

On the business end of things this has been a tremendously productive trip, and our portfolio of Burgundy producers will soon be growing from eight to 12 or 13. I really can’t say anything until all the details are put to bed, but suffice it to say there will be some Romanée-St.-Vivant and Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” in our future. Nothing could make me happier (well, maybe a little Musigny and Richebourg too, but I don’t want to be greedy. All things in good time!)

I can’t believe that tomorrow is Thanksgiving, and that the day after we will be hosting a few tousand of our closest friends at the first T-Giving weekend Open House celebration in our new facilities. Please join us - and the hot tip is to come early, before the crowds - we’re opening at 10 each day for your dining and dancing pleasure… I sure do miss my girls at home- only another 18 hours of travel left to go until I’m home in Portland and surrounded by the people I love!

November 20th, 2006 - This is better than Christmas and a birthday combined. Today is my favorite day of the year - La Paulée in Burgundy. Véronique Drouhin attracts a hand-picked group of producers and collectors from around the planet for this event in the ancient cellars at Drouhin - and it is quite possibly the best gathering of Burgundy geeks on the planet.

“Lunch” started at 12:30 and ended after 7:00. Here’s a partial list of the wines that were going around. I’m sure I missed at least as many, but this is what made it into my glass over the course of the day:

2000 Montrachet - Marquis de Laguiche/Drouhin
1986 Montrachet - Remoissonet
1992 Montrachet - Lafon
1993 Batard Montrachet - Leflaive
1976 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles - Latour
1993 Montrachet - Thenard
1985 Montrachet - Marquis de Laguiche/Drouhin
1992 Ille des Vergelesses - Chandon de Briailles
1952 Meursault Charmes - Jobard-Morey
1979 Puligny Caillerets - Drouhin
1991 Corton - Chandon de Briailles
1993 Meursault Perrières - Morey

Then the reds:

1985 Volnay Santenots - Lafon
1966 Bonnes Mares - de Vogüé
1978 Gevrey-Chambertin - René Leclerc
1949 Pommard - Verdereau
1996 La Romanée - Bouchard
1976 Vosne-Romanée - Jayer
2000 Echezeaux - Grivot
1966 Vosne-Romanée les Suchots - Nicolas
1976 Clos Vougeot- Mugneret
1989 Clos Vougeot - Jadot
1985 La Romanée - Bouchard
1985 Ruchottes Chambertin - Mugneret
1983 Grands Echezeaux - Gros Frère & Soeur
1988 Cros Parantoux - Jayer
1953 Musigny - de Vogüé
1993 Musigny - de Vogüé
1987 Chambolle-Musigny - Lignier
1985 Clos St. Denis - Dujac
1955 Romanée-St. Vivant - Bouchard
1959 Romanée-St. Vivant - Drouhin
1976 Clos des Mouches - Drouhin
1993 Echezeaux - Rouget
1985 Amoureuses - Serveau
1990 Amoureuses - Serveau
1935 Pommard Epenots - Ganou
1986 Latricières - unknown
1998 d’Enfant Jesus - Bouchard
1978 d’Enfant Jesus - Bouchard
1990 Griotte-Chambertin - Drouhin
1990 Clos de la Roche - Drouhin
1919 Moulin-a-Vent - producer unknown
1945 Richebourg - Noellat
1978 Vonay Santenots - Potel
1971 Grands Echezeaux - Villamont
1966 Chambertin - Jadot
1988 Corton Clos du Roi - Chandon de Briailles
1987 Grands Echezeaux - DRC
1993 Beaune 1er - Prosper Mafoux
1993 Clos du Chateau des Ducs - Lafarge
1993 Richebourg - Grivot
1990 Corton Clos du Roi - Faively
1985 Charmes-Chambertin - Leroy
1949 Musigny - Bichot
1959 Ille des Vergelesses - Chandon de Briailles
1964 Griotte Chambertin - Drouhin
1949 Chambertin - Thorin
1931 Bonnes Mares - Groffier
1966 Clos de Beze - Clair Dau

And a bunch of stickies, including:

1976 d’Yquem
1975 d’Yquem
1986 Jurancon ( a late harvest Petite Menseng - amazing stuff)

And finishing with the legendary:

1961 Krug - in magnum.

All I can say is Holy Shit! As impossible as it seems, it just gets better every year. Huge thanks to our hostess Véronique Drouhin, and of course everyone who brought and shared these amazing wines.

My wines of the day: - ‘31 Bonnes Mares, ‘59 RSV, ‘64 Griotte, ‘49 Pommard, and the 1919 Moulin-a-Vent (Beaujolais doesnt age well, of course…!)

November 19, 2006

Sunday, November 19th, 2006

First of all, it’s been an amazing week tasting up and down the Côte. The 2005s are indeed quite special - it seems to be one of those vintages where virtually everyone succeeded, and the entire range of wines is good. Should be a great year to stock up on village-level wines and even the Bourgognes have good stuff. Both white and red seem to be on form.

A first look at the 2006s show great promise - it appears to be a vintage where one must choose wisely, but there will be many excellent wines. There will also be wines showing signs of rot. Between the hail and the mildew and rot issues that faced most viticulteurs, it was a tough one, but those who worked dilligently and wisely seem to have dodged the bullet. Biodynamic producers seemed to have been especially fortunate this time around. I’ll have a better look at these in the spring…

If you had told me a few years ago that I’d be hanging out in Burgundy on a regular basis and going to parties with Domibique Lafon, tasting all of these amazing wines, being invited into people’s homes that I’ve been reading about all my life - I surely would not have believed it. I am truly living the dream, and I am thankful for all the wonderful opportunities that have come my way.

Last night was one of those magic evenings in Burgundy where great people, food, and wine all come together in perfect harmony. At Benjamin & Libby Leroux’s (Domaine Comte Armand) stunning restored stone farmhouse in Merceuil (just 5K below Meaursault), I joined Dominique Lafon, the legendary Jasper Morris, David LaCroix, and a group of 12 for a stunning evening.

We began with a vertical of Vega Sicilia Unico. It is pretty rare for me these days to taste anything other then Burgundy and domestic Pinot, but this was simply amazing. Some brief notes: 1994 (their 2nd wine, not the Unico) - very sexy and deep, silky and very long. 1997 (also the 2nd wine) - incredible nose of earth and smoldering fruits, very very long, showing more acid than the ‘94. 1995 Unico - gorgeous nose, still young and showing some bite. 1994 Unico - A touch hotter than the ‘95, but very fine. 1980 Unico - ridiculously complex nose, extremely long, still young, marked a touch by the wood. 1979 Unico - Pure silk, extremely elegant, nose a little closed today. 1973 Unico - Tremendous nose, pure silk on the palate, very very long, a little heat on the end? (Many picked this as their favorite 1st time around, but it got rather fat and heavy over an hour or two. 1972 Unico - Nose a bit roasty, rather rough and rustic in comparison, tired. 1970 Unico - Absolutely estraordinary in every sense of the word. Clearly wine of the night, a wine I’ll remenber all my life. 1967 Unico - Great nose, but fading all around, more than a little tired now. 1966 Unico - Lacks the complexity and sheer brilliance of the ‘70, but extremely fine. 1965 Unico - CORKED! We finished this flight with a 1954 Marques de Murietta Ygay (coincidentally my birth year) - a stunning nose of honey and apricots - Jasper nailed it as smelling exactly like a 5 Puttanyos Tokaji. It was elegant, lovely, simply divine - and stayed that way over the course of the next 3-4 hours.

Then before dinner, a quick horizontal of Gevrey 2004s from Rousseau:

Clos St. Jacques - the most elegant and finesse-driven of the flight, my favorite today. My notes read “fantastic. Silk. LONG.” Clos de Beze - more powerful and concentrated, but lovely still, shows a bit of wood right now. Chambertin - Perfectly balanced, pure, and fine. Very elegant. The true iron fist in a velvet glove. Also showing wood right now.

WIth an amazing multi-course feast catered by Le Chassagne, we had a few more goodies -

2003 Meursault-Perrières - Comtes Lafon. The best 2003 white I’ve had. Period.

1989 Clos Des Epeneaux - Magnum. Absolutely delicious but still very young and primary.

1978 Clos des Epeneaux - Magnum. Simply spectacular - a great wine at it’s peak. This is why you buy Pommard young and cellar it, so it can turn into this!

1962 Clos des Epeneaux - My notes simply read “Magnificent. Out of control great. Near perfection.

Huge thanks to Ben & Libby for an amazing evening!

I’ll report later on the action at the auction, and of course the full blow-by-blow from tomorrow’s La Paulée extravaganza in the cellars of Drouhin…

November 18, 2006

Saturday, November 18th, 2006

FInally, a real night’s sleep, followed by a brisk walk through the village of Vosne-Romanée this morning (to help burn off the foie gras from yesterday, of course!) I spent most of the day with an exciting producer on the Côte de Nuits - the name to be revealed in the near future, as soon as the details of our deal are nailed down. Suffice it so say we will be adding two or three more amazing Grand Crus to the portfolio next year… Enjoyed another tremndous meal today - lunch at Castel Tres Girard in Morey-St. Denis. I had been there once before with Véronique Drouhin, Jacques Seysses &Etienne de Montille a few years ago, and I’m happy to say it is a good as ever. It’s another strong recommendation for those traveling in these parts… I’m off to dinner at the home of my friend Benjamin Leroux of Domaine Comte Armand - I understand there may be a few wines of interest to be found…

November 17, 2006

Friday, November 17th, 2006

it is now 148 wines later than my last entry. God this is hard work, but it must be done! Without going into boring detail let me just say that the 2005s are as amazing as they are cracked up to be. I thought so when I had a first look at them in barrel a year ago, and I think so even more now. The entire range of wines is superb at each producer I’ve visited so far, including Leclerc, Lamarche, Girardin, Chavy, Millot, Buisson-Charles, and a few new surprises I’ll be able to tell you about after Thanksgiving… I had one of the great lunches of my life this afternoon at Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin -truly inspirational and highly recommended for all who visit Burgundy. I’m still jet-lagged and fading fast, so I’m off for now. More tomorrow!

November 16, 2006 - Live from Hotel le Richebourg in Vosne-Romanée.

Thursday, November 16th, 2006

I love this place - stayed here last November, will return often. Simply great - I highly recommend it. Had a great dinner with Thiébault Huber last night at La Part des Anges in Beaune, a new wine-bar/bistro - great risotto with fresh black truffles, and a bottle of ‘73 Pommard Rugiens that was devine, despite the “off vintage”. Tasted thru all of Thiébaults 05s - they are very strong across the board, from the Bourgogne to the Fremiets and Bertins - killer wines. As always, the only problem is that there will not be enough of them. I’m off to breakfast, and then meetings today with René Leclerc, Lamarche, Aleth Girardin, and a potential new member of the team. More soon…

November 15, 2006

Wednesday, November 15th, 2006

So here I am again, posting from the world’s fastest train as we’re about to pull out of the Gare de Lyon in Paris. The TGV never ceases to amaze me. As long as there’s no strike going on (you just have to get lucky) - this high-speed bullet is always on time - an amazing thing in a country where the infrastructure is spotty at best…

I have survived another Atlantic crossing, but I swear I would kill to figure out some way to get some sleep on the overnight flight. Melatonin helps a bit, and I actually slept maybe 45 minutes to an hour last night, but I always arrived in a state that can only be called toast. Maybe I can catch a few zzzzs on the train before we hit Dijon. More soon…

November 14, 2006 (Update)

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006

I’m in the Dallas airport awaiting the flight to Paris, and have just learned the unbearably sad news of the passing of fellow Oregon winemaker Bryce Bagnall (of his own Bryce Vineyards, and formerly Witness Tree). We first learned of Bryce’s diagnosis of ALS - Lou Gehrig’s disease - in early 2003. To see his rapid decline over these past three years has just made me feel deeply sad and helpless. We have lost a tremendous human being.

Bryce and his wife Marcia were the very first wine people we met when we moved here to Oregon in early 2001. From the moment we met I knew that Bryce was one of those special, rare individuals who had an amazing capacity to bring sunshine and joy to every person and every situation that crossed hsi path. His spirit was genuine and indominable. Bryce probably never knew it, but he was an absolute hero to me. He had lived in Burgundy, worked for the late, legendaryDennis Mortet, and had returned to Oregon to plant his own 4 acre vineyard in a magic spot on Ribbon Ridge. He was living the dream, and his upbeat and positive approach to everything was an inspiration to me on a regular basis. Martha and I had a saying whenever we got crabby or stressed - “What Would Bryce Do?” - our cue to get back on the bright side of things and to quit allowing the negativity to creep in.

The cruelest fate of all time was for such a wonderful, loving man to be cut down by one of nature’s nastiest tricks. He was a talented vigneron, to be sure. His wines and his vineyard will be his legacy, along with his lovely and talented daughter Jordan, and the immense love he spread to all who knew him. His wife Marcia is also a hero - she has been the strongest rock imagineable over these difficult years, and will undoubtedly carry on in the grand Bryce tradition with great wines and a lot of love for all. My deepest sympathies to Marcia and Jordan and the entire family. May you rest in peace, mon ami…

November 14, 2006

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006

I’m posting live from Gate C-9 at the Portland airport, ready to hop on the plane for Burgundy - you gotta love wifi! I’m stoked for this trip - I’ll be visiting all of our producers to taste the amazing 2005s and get a first look at the ’06s, and I have appointments with a couple of potential superstar additions to the portfolio - more as it happens. Also looking forward to maybe bagging a barrel or two at the Hospices auction again this year. And also missing Martha & Pirrie like crazy already… It’s hard to believe I’ll be in Beaune having dinner with Thiébault Huber at La Part des Anges in a matter of hours - only two planes, a taxi, two trains and a rental car away!